ServicesEntry Doors
Entry Doors in Lynnwood
We replace front and side entry doors as complete prehung units: new frame, threshold, weatherstripping and hardware, set plumb and flashed at the sill. You get a door that closes with one hand, locks without a shove and stops the draft at your ankles.

When a new entry door is the right fix
Most entry door trouble starts at the bottom of the frame. Rain runs down the face of the door, collects at the threshold and soaks into the jamb ends and the subfloor under the sill. Over a few wet seasons the wood softens, the frame shifts and the door starts to rub, sag or leak. Replacing only the slab rarely solves that, because the slab hangs on the same tired frame.
That is why we install prehung units. The door, jambs, hinges and threshold arrive as one squared assembly, so we can rebuild the sill properly, set the frame plumb and seal it against the house wrap. If your door is sound and only a part has worn out, we will tell you so on the visit. We would rather you spend money once, the way we would want a neighbor to treat us.
What an entry door replacement includes
A door matched to how you use it
We walk you through fiberglass, steel and wood. Fiberglass resists dents and swelling and holds paint or stain well. Steel is strong and affordable but dents and can rust where the skin is scratched, and wood looks best but needs regular refinishing to stay sealed.
Prehung frame and new threshold
The unit comes with fresh jambs, an adjustable threshold and a compression or magnetic weatherstrip. An adjustable sill lets us fine-tune the seal against the door bottom after the house settles.
Sill pan and flashing
Before the door goes in, we install a sloped sill pan or flashing membrane under the threshold. Any water that gets past the sill drains back out instead of into your subfloor.
Insulation and trim
We fill the gap between the frame and the rough opening with low-expansion foam, which seals air leaks without bowing the jambs. Then we fit interior casing and exterior trim and caulk the perimeter.
Locks, glass and sidelites
Options include multipoint locks that pull the door tight at three points, decorative or privacy glass inserts, and sidelites or transoms. Insulated glass panels carry their own energy ratings, which we can compare with you.

Signs your entry door is ready for replacement
- Soft or dark wood at the jamb bottoms
- Press a screwdriver into the frame just above the threshold. If it sinks in, moisture has rotted the jamb, and the subfloor below is often next.
- Daylight or a draft around the edges
- Light showing at the top corner or a cold strip along the floor means the weatherstrip has flattened or the frame has racked out of square.
- A deadbolt that will not line up
- When you have to lift or push the door to lock it, the hinges or frame have moved. Shimming the strike plate only hides the problem for a while.
- Swelling, peeling or a cracked skin
- Wood slabs that swell every winter, or steel skins with rust bubbling through, have lost their protective finish and will keep getting worse.
- Fogged glass in the door or sidelite
- Condensation between panes means the insulated glass seal has failed. Depending on the door, we may replace the glass insert alone.
How install day runs
- 1
Measure and order
On the first visit we measure the rough opening, check the wall depth and probe the sill area for rot. You choose the door, swing direction and hardware, and we order a unit sized to your opening.
- 2
Protect and remove
We lay floor protection inside, then cut the old frame free and pull it out as a unit. If we find soft sheathing or subfloor, we show you before we repair it.
- 3
Flash, set and seal
The sill pan goes down first, then the new frame is set level and plumb with shims at the hinge and lock points. We foam the gap, adjust the threshold and check that the door latches evenly.
- 4
Trim, test and clean up
Casing and exterior trim go on, the perimeter is caulked, and we test the locks with you. Most installs are finished in a single day, so your home is secure again by evening.
What moves the price of an entry door
An entry door price depends on the door you pick and on what we find in the opening. We give you a written estimate after we have measured and checked the sill, so the number reflects your actual door. Flexible payment options are available if you would like to spread the cost.
- Material and style
- Fiberglass with a wood-grain texture costs more than a smooth steel door, and solid wood sits higher again. Glass inserts and decorative panels add to any of them.
- Sidelites and transoms
- Adding glass panels beside or above the door means a wider frame, more flashing and more trim work.
- Condition under the threshold
- Rotted subfloor, rim joist or sheathing has to be repaired before a new door can be set. We photograph anything we find and price it as a separate line.
- Size changes and permits
- Keeping the existing opening is the simplest path. Widening it means reframing the header, and that work may need a building permit, which we pull for you.
Entry door questions
- Fiberglass or steel, which holds up better in our wet weather?
- Fiberglass usually does. It will not rust or swell, and a good factory finish lasts many years with only cleaning. Steel is a solid choice under a covered porch where it stays mostly dry. Wood can work too, but it needs refinishing every few years to stay sealed.
- Can you just replace the door slab and keep my frame?
- Sometimes. If the frame is square, the jambs are solid and the threshold is not leaking, a slab swap can make sense. In most older openings the frame is the problem, so a prehung unit is the longer-lasting fix. We check it on the visit and tell you which applies.
- Will my home be open overnight?
- Most installs are finished in a single day. If we find extra rot that needs repair, we secure the opening before we leave, and we tell you that possibility up front.
- Do you install storm doors at the same time?
- Yes. If you want a storm door over the new entry door, we can plan both together so the frame and trim line up. Our Storm Doors page covers those options in more detail.
- Can I keep my existing lockset?
- Often, if the new door is bored for the same backset and your hardware is in good shape. Many people choose new hardware to match the finish, or move to a multipoint lock. We will confirm fit before ordering.
Let's look at your front door together
We will measure the opening, check the sill for hidden rot and talk you through the door choices with no pressure to decide that day. Your quote is free, and so is the advice.